Platinum Vs. Gold

  In the history of fine jewelry, never have there been the number of choices available to today’s consumer.  The decision between White Gold and Platinum is among the most contemplated of options encountered at time of purchase.  So this begs of the question, is one metal better than the other?  There is no simple answer to this question.  When asked professionally, I often state that it depends on the type of application and individual preferences.    An educated debate over which metal is “best” cannot take place without discussing the basic properties of each and how they pertain to fine jewelry.
White Gold has been available since the Second World War when restrictions on platinum created a demand for an alternative white metal capable of holding precious gems securely.  To create this new white metal they started with what has been trusted and true for centuries – Gold.  In its most pure form gold is warm yellow in color and referred to as 24 Karat.  For use in jewelry, pure gold must be alloyed for added strength,
Normally cut down to 14 Karat (14 Parts Gold and 10 Parts Other Metals) or 58-1/2% pure gold.   The ingredient list for 14K Yellow Gold typically reads Gold, Copper, Silver and Zinc.  In order to create White Gold, copper ingredients are replaced by either nickel or palladium.  This substitution not only whitens, it adds further structural integrity and hardness.   This is often why you will see White Gold prongs holding precious gems, especially diamonds, regardless of the color of the surrounding metals.  Finally, our new White Gold mixture must be electroplated with a Rhodium metal solution to produce the bright white look you are accustomed to seeing in new White Gold jewelry.  However, this finishing process is susceptible to wear over time and as this occurs, the area worn will take on a light yellow appearance.  The rhodium plating process must then be repeated to make the item appear “new” again.  Rings in general experience quite a lot of wear and therefore will require this process every twelve to eighteen months depending on the individual.
This brings us to Platinum.  It is the heaviest and most expensive of the precious metals, at over two times the weight of gold it’s “heft” or weight is attributed to the metals significant density.  It is this property that gives Platinum its superior strength and durability over time, making it an excellent choice for prongs on engagement style and diamond rings.  Platinum’s strength however is not to be confused with the metal’s resistance to scratching.  With a softer surface than 14K gold, Platinum is more vulnerable to abrasions, which over time protect against the loss of metal do to chipping.  Polishing the metal will restore a smooth finish with little or no metal lost.
The added expense or Platinum jewelry is primarily a result of two important facts.  First being that although pure Platinum is more plentiful as found in the earth, (45 parts per billion vs. 3.5 parts per billion for gold) it is much more thinly dispersed and difficult to mine.  Second, Platinum jewelry contains much more pure Platinum than either its 14 or 18 Karat Gold counterpart.  Most Platinum jewelry available today is 90 to 95% Platinum.  At M.R.T. we have found that some new engagement ring and wedding band styles, such as micro pave and similar styles using shared prongs around very small diamonds, beg of platinum as the precious metal of choice.
So is it going to be Platinum or white gold?   Chances are the decision will be split nearly 50/50 among the readers of this article.  Whether is be simple personal preference or practicality swaying you one way or the other, please consult your local jeweler for further assistance in deciding which metal is appropriate for you.

David J. Audette, V.P.
GIA Diamond Grading Certificate